Perhaps you have already seen in your garden the consequences of such a phenomenon as scab on the apple tree. How to deal with it, what methods and means should be used to protect your trees, fruits from the activity of this parasite fungus? Alas, sooner or later, any gardener is faced with a similar problem, it is not easy to get rid of it, but it is still possible.
About apple scab
Scab is a fungus Venturia inaequalis, which is activated in conditions of high humidity. Long rains, fogs, dampness are favorable conditions for its manifestation. With the advent of early spring, the pathogenic fungus begins to attack young shoots and bark, it seems to cling to them, develops and passes to other parts of the tree. In the advanced stage, the disease causes significant damage to the crop, weakens the vitality of fruit stands, and young trees can even die from its invasion.
Traces of apple scab are very easily recognizable: greenish-yellow, swamp-colored spots first appear on the ovaries, foliage and fruits, which subsequently darken and become covered with cracks. Usually, the disease begins with the defeat of young leaves that are located at the top of the shoot - they are most vulnerable. At first, bright spots are not noticeable, but over time they blacken, increase in size, merge with each other. The diseased leaves dry out and fall off, the affected areas on the fruits become hard, crack and gradually grab the entire apple.
The pathogenic fungus attacks all varieties of apple trees indiscriminately, most of all it likes thickened gardens and rainy weather, and old and very young trees are the first to fall into the risk zone. Trees growing in any region are affected. The way out of this situation is active preventive measures, as well as the detection of the disease at an early stage (removal of all affected fragments). To initially reduce the likelihood of the disease, experienced summer residents recommend choosing varieties resistant to this disease, they will be discussed later.
Scab on apples, photo:
The fungus itself is very tenacious and can easily winter in uncleaned foliage. That is why in autumn it is necessary to rake the fallen leaves in heaps and take them out of the territory. If the forest leaves remain on the ground, then in early spring there will be traces of the disease on it - small dark tubercles in which the spores of the fungus ripen.
Spore release occurs almost constantly, and humidity only contributes to this process.
Throughout the summer, the scab fungus throws out mature spores that attack healthy fragments of the tree. It is noteworthy that the activity of scab does not disrupt the process of photosynthesis, the apple tree grows, and the fungus continues to capture bark, foliage and fruits. Not only the quality of apples is reduced, but the tree itself becomes vulnerable to winter cold, looks outwardly weak, sick.
Scab on apple trees - how to treat?
A radical method of treatment is the pruning of affected branches, the destruction of foliage with traces of fungus. After harvesting, all affected fruits and branches should be removed, and the bark should be cleaned so that only healthy tissue remains. A mandatory rule should be the cleaning of fallen leaves with the advent of autumn, it is a kind of "incubator" for the fungus. Leaves need to be burnt or buried in the ground beyond the boundaries of the site (if the terrain allows), the soil in the area of the trunk circle should be thoroughly dug up. It is recommended to whiten the trunks, and irrigate the crown with a 5% solution of copper sulfate. If your tree grows on a green lawn, then it must also be treated with a solution of ammonium nitrate (10%).
Spring treatment of apple trees from scab is carried out before budding, for this they use Zircon (by the way, they can also irrigate trees in the fall, after harvesting). In the spring, dried branches are removed, the old bark is removed (the one that exfoliates itself), after which the trunk itself is treated with whitewash. Wound places on the branches are covered with garden varieties, and ready-made powder diluted in water (sold in special stores) or an aqueous solution of lime with copper sulfate (5 kg + 1 l per 10 l of water) is used as whitewash.
After the apple trees bloom, they should be treated with copper sulphate (1%), “Tsineb” or “Kuprozan” preparations. After flowering, the tree is treated with Chorus, which is valuable because it is not afraid of rain and is not washed off from the branches.
Signs of the disease on the leaves, photo:
Also for these purposes, you can use the drug "HOM" (4%), Bordeaux liquid (3%), "Khometsin", "Vectra." Irrigation with Bordeaux fluid should be plentiful - so that the drug literally drained drops from the branches. The people call this method blue irrigation, because after it the branches, leaves become bluish in color.
Good results are obtained by the preventive treatment of the apple tree with the systemic fungicide "Skor", it is very concentrated - 1 ampoule should be diluted in 10 liters of water.
Re-treatment with the same drugs is carried out after 3 weeks or a month. In this case, the struggle consists not only in the irrigation of the trunk and branches, but also the land in the area of the trunk circle, as well as plants growing nearby.
Preventive treatment, photo:
Subsequent sprayings are carried out with the arrival of stable warm weather, periodic treatment from scab in the summer inhibits the development of the fungus and protects the trees. For these purposes, the fungicides "Fludioxonil", "Abiga-Peak", "Gamair", "Rayek" are used. Dosages and methods of dilution of drugs are always indicated on the package. Please note that the last processing of apple trees should be carried out at least 15 days before removing the fruits from the branches.
The drug "Fitoflavin" is used in the summer to create a reliable "shield" against the fungus, 3-4 irrigation is recommended for the whole season, the interval between procedures is 15-17 days (20 ml / 10 l of water). The Strobi fungicide also gives good results, during the summer season they can process trees up to 3 times, the interval between procedures is approximately 14 days.
How to process apple trees from scab in the summer? If the situation is not too neglected, then it is better to use the "non-toxic" Zircon drug. It is made on the basis of the plant purple echinacea, it is also its main ingredient. This tool does not have a negative impact on the environment, pets and people.
If the apple tree is seriously affected, then it makes sense to use more serious fungicides, which are listed above. Do not forget about the protective equipment during the processing of the garden, wear a mask and gloves. It is best to carry out irrigation after rain, in the evening (or early morning), in calm weather.
How to process apple from scab in June? At this time, it is best to use the environmentally friendly drug Fitosporin M or Baikal EM-1. These biofungicides strengthen the immunity of the tree, are an excellent prevention against a wide list of fungal, bacterial diseases.
Thus, the first stage of irrigation is carried out before leafing, the second - before flowering, the third (most significant) - after the apple tree has blossomed. Processing from the scab in the summer is carried out (depending on the situation) every 2 or 3 weeks. If the summer was rainy, then the number of procedures should be increased to 5 or 6 times.
How to deal with scab on apple trees - about fungicides and fertilizers
First you need to understand the essence of the matter, the specifics of the "work" of fungicides. The fact is that different manufacturers produce drugs with different names, but most often the main active ingredient is common to them.When you acquire a fungicide, be sure to study its composition, because from the frequent use of the same drug in the scab, immunity to it can simply develop.
In order for the fight against fungus to be effective, experienced gardeners recommend using at least two products with different “working” substances. Also pay attention to the hazard class of the drug, it is always indicated on the package. For suburban areas, levels III and IV are recommended, and there - do as you wish. But keep in mind that chemicals for horticultural farms are highly undesirable to use in the suburban area.
How to cure an apple tree from scab - an important point! Chat with your neighbors in the country, ask if their garden is suffering from this fungus. The fact is that if neighbors have noticed signs of illness, all your efforts, at best, will provide protection for only one season. If there is such a problem, then the fight against scab should be carried out together, only then we can hope for a positive result.
Preventive treatment is also carried out using those fertilizers that are usually used for foliar top dressing. If we consider these additives as a medicine, then their concentration should be very high. If preventive irrigation is planned, the percentage of the drug dissolved in water should be low. For these purposes, use means familiar to all gardeners: potassium salt (15%), ammonium nitrate (10%), potassium nitrate (15%), ammonium sulfate (10%). With the advent of autumn, tree crowns and the ground beneath them can be treated with urea dissolved in water (7%) or nitroammophos (10%). Thus, the apple trees will be fed, and pests and fungal spores will be destroyed (their vast majority).
Sustainable apple varieties to scab
To date, through the efforts of breeders created more than 150 varieties of apple trees that are immune to scab.
I will list some of them:
- Variety "Delight", has a sour-sweet fruit with pink flesh, the skin color is red, with dark raspberry stripes. Varietal species resistant to cold, characterized by increased productivity. Branches are prone to rapid growth, so the "Delight" needs frequent crown formation.
- Apples "Medunitsa", as the name implies, have a honey flavor, have a good keeping quality (up to 2 months). Begins to bear fruit in the fourth year of life, gives a crop by the end of the calendar summer. Crohn is also prone to overgrowth, needs frequent pruning, shaping.
- The Zvyozdochka variety is resistant to cold and most fruit diseases
- Varietal “Chudnoye” is characterized by horizontal growth of branches (self-laying) and small tree sizes. The fruits have a pronounced yellow hue, their weight can reach 200 g.
- Apple trees of the Moscow Winter variety grow to large sizes (very tall) and have a dense leafy crown. This is a frost-resistant variety, the fruits of which are characterized by high keeping quality (can be stored until April). The fruits ripen by the end of September.
- Variety "Orlinka" is characterized by high productivity and unpretentiousness. A fast-growing varietal species, the fruits ripen by about mid-August. Keeping low.
The following apple varieties also have resistance to scab disease: “Saffron Peppin”, “Golden Summer”, “Nocturne”, “Ekaterinodar”, “Dawn”, “Fairy”, “Red Amber”, “Talida”, “Fortune”, “ Juno ”,“ Vasilisa ”,“ Rodnichok ”,“ Orpheus ”,“ Soyuz ”,“ Margot ”,“ Lyubava ”,“ Scythian gold ”(one of the most successful immune varieties of Ukrainian selection),“ Kariot 7 ”,“ Perlina Kiev ", Honey Gold" and others.
Fighting the scab on apple trees - reviews, exchange of experience
Scab is there periodically. But the leaves and rotten apples do not clean and do not bury. I just pour them from a watering can with a 10% urea solution in the fall, and in the spring I rake and burn. Well, of course, you need to spray Bordeaux liquid in the spring, whiten the trunks.
Petr58
https://www.agroxxi.ru/forum/topic/7133-%D0%BF%D0%B0%D1%80%D1%88%D0%B0-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D1%8F % D0% B1% D0% BB% D0% BE% D0% BD% D0% B5-% D0% BA% D0% B0% D0% BA-% D0% B1% D0% BE% D1% 80% D0% BE % D1% 82% D1% 8C% D1% 81% D1% 8F /
I managed to get rid of the scab on the apple tree (the infection was severe) with a one-time treatment with Bordeaux mixture in the early spring before budding. And do not forget to process the small earth around. Of course, a lot depends on the size of the apple tree, whether you can sprinkle it all the way to the top of the head. I had to do this from a stepladder. And do not forget about safety measures, so as not to sprinkle yourself - the muck is still that. After processing the traces of the disease, there are no six to seven years.
Vitat
http://www.websad.ru/archdis.php?code=557552&subrub=%DF%E1%EB%EE%ED%E8+%E8+%E3%F0%F3%F8%E8
The scab method was proposed by the Poles about 20 years ago. Spraying the crown and near-stem circle with a strong solution of urea - 500 ... 700 ... 1000 g per 10 liters of water. This operation is carried out in late September. Leaves after spraying will turn brown. Such a strong solution kills fungal spores. Select scab resistant varieties. For this reason, I had to abandon the cultivation of seedlings of a beautiful variety of Lobo. Although I grow Mantet.
Lover
http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=4897
In the fight against scab, “blue” spraying with 3% Bordeaux fluid during the “green cone” period is fundamental. In general, you need to select varieties resistant to this disease!
Semen
http://www.ya-fermer.ru/parsha-na-yablonyah
Measures aimed at suppressing the scab fungus should begin with compliance with agrotechnical rules when planting, growing apple trees. There should be an acceptable distance between the trees, the crown should be thinned out on time, and one should not forget about sanitary pruning of branches and timely top dressing.
Now you know what the scab on the apple tree is, how to deal with this scourge, how and when to carry out preventive treatments. Pay attention to the first symptoms, because the disease is easiest to overcome in the early stages.
Have a good harvest!