Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and care in the open ground for this marvelous flower will be considered in stages in this article. Proper planting is the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest site into a beautiful romantic corner.
Climbing roses, description
Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You probably have often admired the flower arches of amazing beauty. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-camouflaged old buildings, part of the wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose with its presence. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, grooming and protecting bushes from pests.
The color scheme of this type of roses is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. The size of the buds can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom until the warm season lasts (about 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:
- Semi-braided, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
- Climbing - 3-5 meters.
- Curly - 5-15 meters.
The shoots of these roses form continuously, the phases of budding and flowering vary, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives, there are both single blooming species and re-blooming.
Climbing rose, photo:
The buds of individual varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that can be heard at a distance, some fragrance a little audibly, subtly and gently.
How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place
This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good water permeability of the soil are most suitable for this type of rose. If unsuitable soil for the climbing rose prevails in your area, be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay (to a depth of about 30 cm) is added to the sandy soil; in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.
All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before the planting of roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting curly roses where their brothers did not grow before. If it doesn’t work out differently, then before landing you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, a climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater does not go close to the top soil layer at the selected location.
If you decide to "drape" part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, a climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of severe cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in full bloom. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least + 10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May is the most optimal time for spring planting.
Planting a climbing rose when it is better in spring or autumn
I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will lag behind in development a little, require you to pay increased attention to your person. In comparison with their autumn counterparts, they can delay the flowering time by about 10 days.
All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are used both in spring and autumn.
- So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots too, up to 30 cm.
- Dig a spacious hole so that the roots can grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
- If you are planting several bushes, the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing a seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also buried by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
- The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with his hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and do not bend up!
- Planting in the spring a climbing rose provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the pit. About 3-5 kg of peat compost, for example, will please your rose.
- After planting, the soil is crushed a little and watered abundantly.
- It will be very good if you add to the water for this first watering a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.
In some cases, summer residents cover the newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. To do this or not to do it is up to you if the weather conditions in your region prompt you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to raise the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the earth around the bushes with humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.
How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?
Today in flower shops you can buy seedlings of climbing roses with open or closed root systems.
Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there must be at least two of them. Such an escape must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.
Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you can not immediately assess the state of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.
The elongated shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.
Careful attention should also be paid to the places of vaccination; in a properly grafted graft, at the site of the “junction”, callus tissue should be present that promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then with such a rose you will only have problems.
Planting spring climbing roses from the store, stages:
- A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot with an earthen lump, after which it is planted in a selected place. In representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the inoculum, remove them. If there is a wild shoot - we remove it too, you can pinch off too long shoots. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated carbon.
- The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transportation earth will become soft, it will be easy to remove and carefully examine the root system. In water, you can first add the stimulator "Kornevin" (according to the instructions).
- We take out the roses from the water, as carefully as possible, straighten the roots and put the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
- After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the vaccination site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
- If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. Such a protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.
Next, you will need standard care for the climbing rose: hilling, watering, feeding, removing weeds, garter and forming a bush.
Climbing roses, care and growing
In the heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully dig the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day so that the plant subsequently does not experience stress during a nightly drop in temperature. Ensure that the grafting site remains approximately 10 cm deep in the soil.
During the growing season, climbing roses require generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulled. For roses, waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so keep a middle ground in this matter.
Climbing rose, photo:
How to fertilize climbing roses
Fertilizer is an important step in the care of a climbing rose, because this species is quite demanding on top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rosa" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly introduce phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of the drugs in the instructions, remember that by feeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.
Care for climbing roses in the first year of planting
How does it differ from standard requirements? From the competent care in the first year of the plant's life, its further development and the splendor of flowering depend. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first light shading by coniferous spruce branches will not hinder. After 10-12 days after the removal of the swelling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, a similar procedure should be done, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush should be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.
Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificent next year.
In the summer, preventive irrigation from invasion of parasites should not be neglected, and with the onset of autumn, rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spanbond or coniferous spruce branches are an excellent covering material for this plant. The bush takes cover completely. When the new spring comes, young bushes open first, senior representatives - later. In principle, all bushes of a climbing rose take shelter for the winter. An old proven method is the earthing up of soil with sand (1: 1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the advent of autumn, and a little later - complete shelter with the onset of the first frosts.
Pruning climbing roses or how to prune climbing roses
Do they cut a climbing rose in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spudded, then the climbing one must be completely covered - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are trimmed.
Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after trimming), combine them into one bundle, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with the appropriate protective material. If there are several bushes, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only at the same time the plant is not removed from the support, but securely wrapped with protective material directly on it. The base of the bush spud as described above.
How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care event needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, contributes to a generous and long flowering, positively affects the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm, in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.
Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning of branches is done at the end of the flowering phase.
How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, later they will be successfully replaced by young root shoots. If these processes are absent, then the old branches should be measured approximately 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at enhancing the growth of replacing root branches.
The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off at the place where a new powerful shoot began to form, subsequently it will serve as a conductor.Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.
How to prune a climbing rose in spring? The secateurs should be picked up when the buds begin to swell on the branches below (the last weeks of April / beginning of May), not earlier. If you start pruning too soon, the branches can simply freeze during night frosts, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the time of pruning, the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be sparse.
Pruning of climbing roses in spring has one important point - removal, namely, the cutting off (not cutting) of wild shoots that grew below the graft site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also, at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all the affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the kidneys swell on the "living" branches.
Transplanting a climbing rose to another place
Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. The best time to perform this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. A transplant is not recommended later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.
However, if circumstances so require, transplanting a climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses do not have time to wake up yet, we can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug up (moving in a circular pattern), approximately 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the pit be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.
Next, the plant is removed from the ground, excess soil is removed from the roots, after which the climbing rose is immediately transplanted to a new place.
When transplanting, the same rules are observed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the empty space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is slightly tamped and generously watered with water.
After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.
There is one interesting nuance associated with the transplanting of roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varietal species of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:
- Klimmers
- ramblers.
Varieties of climbing rose-climbers are called climbing, they form coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. The shoots of Klaimers are not very flexible, when transplanted, they must be cut to half the entire length!
Ramblers are precisely curly roses with flexible and soft shoots-lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambramble roses are characterized by active growth, when transplanted, they cut off all the shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must be nipped at the top - this technique speeds up the lignification of branches.
How to propagate a climbing rose?
There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only with the purchase of seed in the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry varietal signs of the mother plant.
Growing climbing roses from seeds
Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. After we extract the seeds from the solution, put them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also saturated with peroxide.
The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. Periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).
After 40-50 days, seedlings that have already sprouted can be gently transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Cassettes for seedlings are also suitable.
Watering young shoots should be as the soil dries. In order for the plants to develop correctly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or in cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, a new livestock is planted in open ground.
Propagation of a climbing rose by cuttings
This is the easiest way to reproduce, almost always giving a 100% positive result. To cut the cuttings, you will already find faded or still flowering branches that are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.
The cut fragment must have at least two internodes; the lower section (angle 45º) should be located close under the kidney. The upper section (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.
Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. In a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, place the stalk, deepen it by about 1-2 cm, cover it with a glass jar on top and put it in a well-lit place.
Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the cans) and make sure that it does not fall under direct sunlight.
Reproduction of climbing roses layering
In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, directly under the kidneys. Next, we draw up a small bed-groove about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now gently bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fall asleep, shoot the soil, but leave the top looking outward. Further, as usual, we look after the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.
Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on the dogrose
A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rosehip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, rosehip should be generously watered.
An incision of the bark in the form of the letter “T” is made directly on the root neck of the shrub, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled. In this peculiar "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The eye should be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.
Next, tightly press the eye to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (it is freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush spills up, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the inoculation site (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the advent of a new spring it is removed for good.
A climbing rose doesn't bloom - why?
This can also happen, at least in flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were identified that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.
- Diseases The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses are cancer of the bark and ashtray (powdery mildew). Good results are given by preventive irrigation of bushes with Bordeaux liquid (1%) at the stage of sleeping kidneys. To reduce the risk of bark cancer, plants should be provided with potash fertilizers. In early autumn, you need to feed a climbing rose with potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) and / or a nitrogen-phosphorus supplement, for example, superphosphate. A thorough check and timely removal of the affected branches, as well as a competently conducted shelter of roses for the winter, are a powerful shield against diseases that weaken the plant and can really cause a lack of flowers.
- Wild growth. Multiple processes can often be seen near the root zone of a climbing rose. Of course, they should be removed in a timely manner, because they do not bear any benefit, they only drain the vitality from the bush. If you ignore them and allow them to grow further, your rose will gradually run wild and, naturally, will cease to give color. Wild growth should be removed immediately as soon as it catches your eye.
- Wrong shelter for the winter. A climbing rose needs careful shelter before the onset of cold weather. Proper wrapping of bushes is to create an air cushion between the covering material and, in fact, the bush itself. Such an air gap will protect the plant from dampness during possible thaws, because dampness for a rose is as destructive as low temperatures. Properly conducted preparations for the winter also include limiting watering, starting in the first weeks of September. A ban is also imposed on loosening the soil. From this time, the rose should not be given nitrogen fertilizing, only potash is allowed.
- Too many nitrogen additives. Everything is simple here - nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of the green mass of the plant, which, in turn, negatively affects the setting of buds. If you overdo it with nitrogen supplements, a climbing rose may not bloom.
- Unsuitable place to land. An incorrectly chosen place can cause not only the lack of flowers, a rose can simply die. Before choosing a site for planting a climbing rose, make sure that there are no strong drafts and shading.
- Illiterate pruning. Everything should be in moderation, if you too actively start pruning and grab a lot of young shoots, the rose simply will not be able to recover and, of course, will not form buds. Cut the plant correctly, remove the old and thickening branches of the crown, pay attention to the wild shoots.
- Inappropriate soil composition. The soil for growing climbing roses has already been mentioned above. The composition of the earth is an important factor, plus it must be fertile, loose, saturated with nutrients.
Climbing rose - diseases and pests
Prevention and control of disease or pest invasion is one aspect of climbing rose care. Spider mites, aphids, leafworms, thrips, rose sawfly - a list of the most active parasites of climbing roses.
At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches manually, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as she feels herself a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides “Shar Pei”, “Aktara”, “Inta-Vir”, as well as the good old “Karbofos” are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.
If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tbsp.) And dissolve it in 1 liter of water. With this solution, irrigate the rose bushes for a week, then remove all the affected fragments - this should help.
The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silver coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of fighting with a thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact Ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes double treatment of roses with this drug is enough for the tick to lose its position. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.
According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the preparation "Aktara" works perfectly against a rose sawfly. The preparations "Actellik" and "Fosbezid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result that applies not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.
In addition to all of the above, I would like to recall the spring and autumn sprayings of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.
Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).
There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but a serious attitude to prevention minimizes the risk of the disease.
Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wounds with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.
Defeat with coniotirium can be detected in spring, as soon as the shelter is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Before the awakening of the buds, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate, the earth around the bush must be irrigated too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the Abiga-Peak preparation can also participate in the case, while the kidneys have not yet blossomed.
In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of iron sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such sprayings are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may suffice.
Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties
The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering steadily. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-flowering varietal varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them and briefly describe their main qualities.
Climbing Rose "Iceberg"
It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until the fall) and abundantly. Repeated flowering is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and can quickly braid an arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.
Grade "Iceberg", photo:
Climbing Rose "Lavinia"
It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a deep pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light musky notes. Grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.
Variety "Lavinia", photo:
Variety "Polka"
It is characterized by wavy flowering, about five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot hue, gradually turning into a cream color. He loves sunlit places, has good resistance to disease, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large spikes, the aroma is weak.
Photo of a climbing rose of the Polka variety:
Climbing Rose Don Giovanni
Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of saturated red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without any problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and retain freshness for a long time.
Variety "Don Juan", photo:
Variety "Flamentants"
This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red color. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petalled. It has high frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.
Photo of roses "Flaments":
Handel climbing rose
The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright raspberry edges and a slightly yellowish middle. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. Rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, you should be wary of black spotting and ashtrays.
Variety "Handel", photo:
Variety "Bobby James"
Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, is resistant to diseases, semi-double flowers are white, with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), they look like cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety
Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":
Golden Rose Perfume
Repeated flowering variety, whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - saturated green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.
Variety Golden Perfume, photo:
Variety "Parade"
One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, which has large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry hue or saturated dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, is resistant to precipitation.
Roses of the Parade variety, photo:
Chain rose “Schwanensee”
Another variety characterized by increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until the frost, slowly dissolving and spreading a delicate delicate aroma. The variety is hardy, re-flowering, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.
Variety "Schwanensee", photo:
Variety "Casino"
This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon buds are most beautiful in the dissolved form. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a terry flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, many times throughout the summer.
Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:
Of course, a climbing rose will require time and effort from you, but, you must admit, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.
Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed them with appropriate fertilizers on time.
Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.
Let a climbing rose be sure to settle on your site. Planting and care in the open ground, the nuances of reproduction and transplanting, an approximate idea of the individual varieties - all this you now know and can apply my advice in practice.