With its exquisite beauty, a tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which does not differ much in complexity from garden cares with its closest relative (grassy peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower belongs to deciduous plants.
Tree peony, photo:
Tree Peony Features
Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height, it has powerful powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of various shades, but also by carved, as if openwork leaves of feathery shape. Multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which in diameter can reach from 14 to 23 cm. The tree-like peony is striking in its color scheme, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, saturated fuchsia, yellow, soft lilac, blue (Sapphire Blue ) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm (and the second one is even larger).
Sizes of flowers, photo:
The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also diverse: terry, semi-terry, normal smooth. A remarkable feature of the tree-like is the increase in the number of flowers every year. The time of its flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative - an ordinary peony. He has a higher tolerance to cold, he has a more stable "immunity" in comparison with his grassy counterpart.
Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:
The bush is characterized by abundant flowering, the number of buds blooming at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the blooming phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, by itself is able to decorate any summer cottage or flower bed.
Foliage of a tree peony, photo:
Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to the other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious, with its individuality it is appropriate to emphasize the hedge, arch, the area near the gazebo, garden bench or entrance to the house.
What is the difference between a tree peony from a grassy peony?
The first visual difference is more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact - this is a bush. At the grassy one, closer to the cold weather, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree-like only grows them, every year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. In the fall, he naturally discards foliage, but the shoots remain, they become strong, as if lignified.
Another point, on the tree representative, it is not necessary to periodically cut the buds to stimulate the subsequent flowering and distribution of the plant's vitality. This method only works well in the case of its grassy "relative." Tree-like in its “behavior” is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it tolerates winter well, but it is better to protect it with special covering material in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia). Also for these purposes, you can also use spruce branches.
If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then the flowering period will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms earlier than the grassy fellow for one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without transplantation, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photographs below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!
Photo of long-lived bushes:
Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of the upright shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush gains color, grows shoots, is abundantly covered with buds. In the first years, it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species, for the first five years it generally very slowly adds up in volume and in growth. The temporary difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.
Briefly summarize the main difference between the difference between a tree-like and a grassy one, with the following parameters:
- bush height;
- the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
- nuances, differences in care;
- escape toughness.
Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as fast as we would like. In order for the bush to produce flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.
Why doesn’t the tree peony bloom?
This question can often be seen on themed flower forums or various horticultural groups on social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, poorly selected planting location, as well as illiterate soil preparation for it (lack of drainage, failure to observe the proper penetration of the flower into the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet reached the stage of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, more than one year must pass before the tree-like peony gives color).
The place for placing bushes should be bright and airy, the soil should be fertile, loose, alkaline.
This plant really does not like transplantation - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is nevertheless required, then all actions should be carried out extremely carefully. You need to remove the bush from the soil with an earthen lump, be careful to ensure that the roots are not damaged. However, be prepared for the fact that after this event the flower will come to its senses for a very long time, be sick and adapt in a new place for 2 or even 3 years.
Proper watering also has a big effect on flowering. You need to water abundantly and generously at a time, but you do not need to do this often! Stagnant water is dangerous for him, therefore, if clay soil prevails in your area, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (lay a drainage layer in the hole under the flower). It develops better and grows in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and flowering longer.
Bud, photo:
I will summarize the main reasons why the tree peony does not bloom:
- Inadequate or, conversely, excessive penetration of the bush into the soil during planting.
- Excessive nitrogen fertilizers.
- Excessive hobby or, conversely, inadequate provision of fertilizing (this flower does not need a large number of auxiliary additives).
- Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, by abnormal heat. Diseases should also not be discounted. When planting a flower, always take into account the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your area. For example, living in warm regions, choose early-flowering cultivars.
- The banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
- Age - young bushes bloom for 4 or 5 years of life, as mentioned above.
- Too close a distance between plants - he loves space.
- Transplantation (sometimes repeated) or separation of the rhizome can also be a consequence of the lack of flowers.
- Pruning shoots. Out of ignorance, some gardeners cut the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage began to change color (darken) or fall off.
- Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogged soil. Remember that in the intervals between watering the earth must have time to dry out.
Many gardeners would like a flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of a grassy fellow. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to develop new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies (peonies of a new generation) - but this is a completely different story.
Separately growing bush (he needs space), photo:
Important - the choice of seedlings
Pay attention to planting material - its root system can be open or closed. When buying at the appropriate point of sale, the seedling may already have a special package (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, be bare or in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a finished pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.
Be sure to look at whether there is a grafting on the seedling or whether it has its own roots. If grafting is available, then the roots differ in dark color and thickness. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. For such representatives, flowers may appear in the first year of life after planting. Such samples need to be purchased in appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and nothing else.
Saplings, photo:
If you got a seedling obtained from a layering, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting, you can see the flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the “scheme” for receiving layering: a healthy and strong shoot with kidneys is bent to the ground, pinned, and covered with soil. After a certain time, the roots sprout from the kidneys, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.
When acquiring such a seedling obtained from a layering, pay attention so that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has a minimum of 5 capable buds. The length of such a seedling should be at least 25 cm!
Tree Peony - Outdoor Planting and Care
In order for the beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is considered the end of summer / beginning of autumn. If possible, identify for him an elevated place, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Thick trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a dense shadow - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the best place. Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. As for planting in the spring, it is not recommended because of the complex adaptation of the plant, because during this period growth and flowering are activated.
Loam is ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then add turf, clay, peat, humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of the peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so “deoxidize” it beforehand by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater, but if there is no other way, then you need to make a hole for it rather deep (about 70-80 cm, the diameter is similar). Lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the recess, somewhere around 30-35 cm, crushed stone or gravel of fine fraction are perfect for this business. In extreme cases, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.
Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing complicated: build a small mound from the ground in a pit, put a bush on it, straighten its roots carefully, pour it generously with water. After the moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling so that its root neck is flush with the surface of the soil.
If you plant several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant from another!
The so-called "finicky" is to find a middle ground - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but a dense shadow is unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with decay of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become an elegant lush bush. Soil is important, because it is the plant’s nutrition, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing complicated for an enthusiastic gardener, since each green resident needs attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and awareness of success, that all the same it turned out, grew, blooms and smells!
Peony tree planting and care - additions (optional):
- Some gardeners say that the planting pit must first "mature". I already wrote above about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced gardeners, this pit should be prepared a month before planting a seedling. That is, add all the additives in advance, and only then dig the seedling into the pit.
- When a seedling is buried in the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded about 15 cm into the soil. Some gardeners recommend laying such a “cake” in advance on the bottom of the pit: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add complex top dressing on top, spread evenly on it 1 a tablespoon (with a slide) of copper sulfate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little slaked lime with soil (to lower the pH).
- If the seedling fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, then “sleep” it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable soil mixture, deepen the bush into it, place in a cool, but lighted room. Over the entire period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it permanently in open ground.
To listen to these supplements or plant a plant without special tricks - you choose. As practice shows, with proper compliance with all requirements, in both cases you will get a positive result.
How to care for a tree peony?
Basic care for him, in principle, is the same as for grassy. From time to time, you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush can boast an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.
Watering
One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such plentiful watering should be carried out at least 2 times a month. At the same time, consider the possible precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the state of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. Around August, the volume of water during irrigation should be gradually reduced to a complete exclusion. It is recommended to fluff the earth around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of the earth dries. The depth of immersion of a garden tool in the soil when loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.
Fertilizers
Peony is very fond of nitrogen and potassium, it must be applied regularly. Nitrogen supplements are relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing phase. When the bush begins to produce flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, a little nitrogen can be added.However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, so whether or not to add nitrogen at this period is up to you. Sometimes it’s better to stay short of time than to overtake - this is just the case with respect to nitrogen fertilizer. Do not forget to moisten the soil abundantly before each feeding, this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.
While your peony is at a young age, then the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied by the foliar method: approximately 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and sprayed with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "nutrition" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in spring, during the appearance of new shoots, during swelling of the buds, after the bush finally fades.
Winter protection
As mentioned above, the tree-like peony is cold-resistant, however purchased specimens need mandatory protection in the winter. It will be better if for the first couple of years you will cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spanbond, burlap or lapnik. Additionally, from above, you can make a “hat” of snow. The cultivation and protection of (even adults) peonies in cold regions has been said above.
Tree peony pruning
Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a nursing nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shrunken and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.
In China, there is a tendency to produce radical anti-aging pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost to the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activating new buds, which subsequently gives a “second life” to the flower.
Or, each branch is cut to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the bush. As they have in China - they know better, and in our regions, according to experimental observations, the tree peony does not like pruning, so with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some branches are very frozen, do not rush to cut them, it is quite possible that the buds will still “move away”, wake up and blossom - this also happens.
Tree Peony Diseases
This flower is considered quite persistent and strong in relation to disease resistance. However, parasites and diseases can also visit it. Illiteracy is the main problem, and shrubs that are old or weakened by transplants are the first to be at risk.
The main diseases and methods of dealing with them:
- The most dangerous and treacherous enemy is gray rot (aka Botritis). This fungal disease is activated with waterlogging of the soil and lack of sun (for example, when it is rainy summer). A grayish coating appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn somewhere further away from the site. Another symptom of this disease is softening and sharp withering of young and strong shoots. It is treated by irrigation with potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. Not only the ground part of the bush should be irrigated, but also the soil around it, and even mulch.
- Brown spotting is the same action. Prevention from it are irrigation with a weakly pink solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water). Affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux fluid.
- Rust (some gardeners claim that it is a synonym for brown spotting) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed in a day. First, brown-purple spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage curls sharply and at the same time dries out. Radical treatment is the removal of all affected parts of the shrub and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure the influx of fresh air (removing weeds and thinning out other nearby plants). In early spring, even before leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with nitrafen diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
- The ring-shaped mosaic of foliage is another viral disease, which is manifested by the appearance of stripes and “rings” on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green hue, as practice shows, the annular mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but the appearance of the foliage spoils. The strips dry out over time and the sheet cracks. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.
By the way, diseases are often transmitted not only through infected planting material or soil, but also through garden tools. Insects, even common ants, can carry the fungus or virus to healthy bushes.
A real garden aristocrat - a tree-like peony, cultivation and care, as well as an approach to oneself, oddly enough, requires a completely unpretentious and has no special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and shrub. The long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with its beauty for many years and even decades.